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Uzbek Alpinist wins Russian "gold"

A celebration ceremony in honor of the Republic's famous mountain-climber has recently taken place at the Tashkent Club of Climbers and Tourists of the Asia Travel Company.

Each year, our renowned Climbers, led by Ilyas Tukhvatullin, subjugate new mountain peaks. The number of admirer hearts they win after each new ascent is growing in direct proportion. The group was decorated with the latest award for the conquest of one more summit. This time, the gold medal of the Russian Championship and a diploma certifying the conferment of the Honored Master of Sports title were presented to Ilyas Tukhvatullin, an eminent conqueror of the highest mountain peaks in Europe and Asia. This mission of honor was accomplished, on behalf of the head of the Federal Agency for Physical Training and Sports of the Russian Federation, Vyacheslav Fetisov, by Anatoly Shabanov, secretary general of Uzbekistan's Federation of Alpinism, an honored trainer of the Republic of Uzbekistan.

Let us remind our readers that within the framework of the Russian Open Championship for Alpinism, a new record was established. It deals with the high-speed ascent of Mount Khan-Tengri, one of the Tyan Shan's peaks, whose height exceed 7,000 meters. It is located at the junction of frontiers of three countries: Kazakhstan, the Kyrgyz Republic and China. Two bosom-friends, Iiyas Tukhvatullin and Pavel Shabalin from the Russian town of Kirov had managed to reach the summit for eight days. The route they had chosen was very complicated. Suffice it to say that for the first time, Climbers climbed Mount Khan-Tengri along its northern slope. These mountain-climbers have been working in tandem for a long time. At first, they were members of different teams. But later on, they had accomplished numerous ascents together. Using different routes, they had subjugated all the peaks of the Tyan Shan, Pamir Alay, Karakorum and the Himalayas. And the longed-for objective of Climbers from al! over the world, Mount Everest, is also on the credit-side of their track-record of successful Alpinist activity. Additionally, Ilyas Tukhvatullin had conquered Mount Djomalungma two times, for which he was decorated with two state rewards of the Republic of Uzbekistan.
Unfortunately, this tandem may disintegrate. The point is, Shabalin returned from the expedition out of form. He underwent an operation on his toes.

For Ilyas Tukhvatuilin, the expedition to Mount Shaid, a 5,000 m peak, this summer became a kind of rehearsal before his ascent of Mount Khan-Tengri. The team led by Ilyas consisted of his colleagues - Ivan Lobanov, Victor Kononerov, Sergey Ilyasov and Oleg Volkovich.
"During the meeting held at the Climbers' Union, I received an enormous supply of energy, - said Ilyas. - Each of our professionals, who had not taken part in the expedition, congratulated me on such an achievement. I was particularly moved by congratulations from Vyacheslav Voronin, the 1976 Champion of the USSR, who told that all his life he dreamed of ascending Mount Shaid, but his dream was not realized. And we succeeded in doing this", he added.

Mount Khan-Tengri (7,010 meters above the sea level) is located in the upper reaches of the Inylchek glacier. In Turkic, "Khan-Tengri" means the "lord of mountains". By the way, for Ilyas Tukhvatullin, this year's ascent of the peak was the fifth in succession. Despite these fact, it was the most difficult, fatiguing, and, as it turned out afterwards, the best achievement in the Open Championship of Russia.

It is worthy of note that in 2005, the national Alpinism team of Uzbekistan has taken third place in the CIS for the ascent of the 5,000 m Mount Shaid located in the Pamir-Alai, right on the border between the Republic of Uzbekistan and the Kyrgyz Republic. Apropos, the first sportsman who climbed this summit at the beginning of the 1960s was our fellow-countryman, Anatoly Mogilevtsev.
Since then, sportsmen from all over the world have been there. Mount Shaid is ranked as the sixth category peak. Notwithstanding the fact that its height cannot be compared with the world's famous peaks in the Himalayas, all natural "beauties" seem to concentrate there, including deep clefts, steep precipices, ice, strong winds, cliffs and suchlike.

"In the near future, we plan to carry out a periodical training in the Chimgan mountains, - continued Ilyas Tukhvatullin. - Next year we plan to climb Mount K-2 as members of the Russian combined team. By the way, this peak is far more difficult than the Everest. I make no secret of the fact that there is some fear about the forthcoming ascent. But despite everything, I'll take part in this expedition."

Well, such a firmness of purpose is praiseworthy. Let us wish our celebrated Alpinist every success in the achievement of his goals.

Konstantin SERIKOV
Business Partner, Newspaper